Nearly everything I print is Star Wars or space related so here is goes.
I'm print out an R0 dome from The Force Awakens.
3D printing a R0 dome build blog.
First of foremost thanks to Tiny P. who modeled this in 3D and let me print this cool dome out. If you want to print this project out, contact Tiny P. Don't PM for me the files I'm not giving out the STL files as he requested.
The dome is pretty simple
Lower ring 10 days to print
Dome section 15 days to print
Top Dome plate 1 day print
Radar Eye 1 day print
Greeblies and boxes 1 day to print.
So this took me a month now stop to print out, it used about 4 spools of PLA
6 shells thick 50% infill on all parts.

This is part of the lower ring. The lower ring is actually 2 parts that will be bonded together. This part is being print and later flipped over and it goes on to the Rockler ring. If you look at the photo you can see part of the print is about to come off the print bed. When I started this project I had several issues with prints coming off the bed. So I experimented with various heat levels on the bed and the blue tape.
The small parts print out fine with my N2 plus but parts that take over 1 day, like nearly this entire project I came up with a better method to get them to stick to the bed by trial and error. In the end I had to resort to over kill methods to get this to print out.

What I eventually learned was I cake on that elmers glue all over the area the raft is going to be laid down. I also run the print bed at 75c until the part is about 1 inch high then I turn it down to 60c. Then after the raft is made and the part is being printed. I go back with the elmers glue stick and I cake more on just with the raft and the print bed creating a bead of glue. I'll use my fingers to caulk that glue to the raft and make sure you don't see any air bubbles in the raft. You can see the glue caked on the raft above. Once I started doing this, I had ZER0 print fails or print lifting off the bed. So if you're having troubles with PLA sticking to your bed give that method a shot.

After 3 days you'll have the lowest part of the lower ring printed out. Then I used loctite superglue jel to bond the 3 rings together. Then I tried out that 'friction welding' method on this part. It took me an hour to just get these 3 little area friction welded. I had to come up with something faster for the rest of this build. I've been 3D printing for 4 months and this is the first time I had parts to bond and finish.

This is the other side of it. It will go over your Rockler ring and just barely. So that means I had to take my Rockler and drill and tap 10-24 bolts into it. Something to consider if you do this, how will that work since there is no room to have a nut hold the studs up form those bolts we use on R2-D2.

This is the top part of the ring. Again I superglued it together and used a blue strap to hold it together overnight.

I used PLA to stick on the little alignment holes. TIP don't use many of them or you'll never get the 2 parts to marry. It's not required to use them all just a few to align your parts.

Time to marry these 2 parts. I used alittle of everything. I used allot of superglue, blue straps and then realized I needed some large clamps and drove to Harbor Freight that sells junky tools and bought some clamps. Before I used the clamps I had too big of a gap with both parts of the rings. But that did the trick.
Next with the clamps and everything still on the part. I took the part outside and did what I call 'redneck 3D printing by hand'. I got my solder gun out and put a round tip on it and turned it up as high as it can go, around 800 I think. Then I used some PLA as my beed and used the soldering gun to melt the PLA and join the 2 parts together. In under 1 hour I had welded over 6 foot of PLA. I started inside, then did small parts of the outer ring.
Then I took off the clamps and continued to weld all the area the clamps were blocking.

This is how it looks after welding. It have to say this is really, really solid and a bit heavy.

I replaced the roundish tip on the soldering gun with a long flat tip. Now I'm going to do the same redneck 3D printing and shave the outside. I've done level 5 smooth wall before so I have a good hand and eye for this. I didn't weld every seam, the smaller gaps will get filled with putty and XTC.