X axis slipping

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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Wed Aug 17, 2016 10:11 am

Did you try moving X and Y on screen?
From 0 to 305. Then 305 to 0. Observe whether there is odd point during the whole movement.

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woofy
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby woofy » Wed Aug 17, 2016 12:22 pm

I Haven't tried movement from the screen, I'll do that when the current print is done. Seems to be going well at the moment but still has 18 hours to go.

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walshlg
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby walshlg » Wed Aug 17, 2016 3:02 pm

nifty print! i noticed that you haven't insulated your print head. Some filaments, especially PLA, will curl up on thin walls, especially if angled, if they don't cool enough. THis is especially bad doing dual head printing as the second head is always hot, effectively re-heating everything below it.

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woofy
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby woofy » Fri Aug 19, 2016 1:09 pm

It failed again, with a Y axis shift this time. Since both wings are broken off I'm guessing the head hit the model. How could that happen so close to the end of a 50 hour print? Z-axis problem? The model was still well fixed to the print bed when I found it.

Adding a z-hop is not an option, it adds another 600 hours to a 43 hour print.

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Raise3D N2+, Ultimaker2 & UP plus printers.

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woofy
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby woofy » Fri Aug 19, 2016 2:39 pm

Vicky@Raise3D wrote:Did you try moving X and Y on screen?
From 0 to 305. Then 305 to 0. Observe whether there is odd point during the whole movement.

How do I do that?
All I can see is incremental movements of 10mm max.
Raise3D N2+, Ultimaker2 & UP plus printers.

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walshlg
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby walshlg » Fri Aug 19, 2016 4:11 pm

disable steppers and move by hand. Note that display doesn't reset even after you re-engage the motors but touching it again will disable steppers again.

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walshlg
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby walshlg » Fri Aug 19, 2016 4:13 pm

THe strings on the head are not the problem -> they are the filament that is extruded for the broken off wings, that hit that broke off the wings , is what you should figure out.

It happened again with the lower jaw, farther up.

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woofy
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby woofy » Fri Aug 19, 2016 4:28 pm

Yes, I can move the head around by hand ok.
I just got the impression from what vicky said that there was a way to enter a position directly, a bit like entering a preheat temperature for the bed.

The head hit my model twice, knocking the models left wing off first, then about 8mm higher the right wing. From the heights I can see the Y shift happened at the same time as the first hit. I think slowing the acceleration has fixed the x shift problem and nozzle hitting model is a new problem.

I'm going to insulate the hotend and try again. How did you do yours? Any pics would be appreciated.
Raise3D N2+, Ultimaker2 & UP plus printers.

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walshlg
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby walshlg » Fri Aug 19, 2016 6:10 pm

Insulation is a bit of a painful problem. It will never look nice, SMH

[DO NOT buy the barbecue/smoker insulation!! I thought it would be perfect but they have a glue on it that really really stinks when it gets hot. Go figure.]

IMHO: Buy a LOT of the insulation, I use the 1" wide stuff and went through 18" of it until I was satisfied with my tape job. I also just redo the entire insulation rather than try and tape the pieces on if I have to take it off. Get really good scissors. Buy a roll of 1" wide Kapton tape.

Julia's tape job looks super, hopefully she will give tips.

Start with just the bare and empty heat blocks. I like to put a 1" piece of tape onto the end of the strip of insulation, I put that tape onto the bare aluminum so I can wrap the insulation fairly tight then I wrap it just once with Kapton. Then I use the fine scissors to cut out the holes I have just covered. I Like to leave a sleeve like bit extending about 1/2 inch past the ends of the block to us later to tape over the ends. So you end up with a sleeve around the hot block covered with a layer of Kapton. Now cut into the corner angles of the end sleeve pieces to make 4 free flaps that can be bent as needed. Now insert the important stuff - I found that I liked trimming extra away from the isolation tube as it needs to be free to move/turn. Now tape around the hot block again (leaving ends open). Trimming Kapton is a mess but this must be tight so the isolation tube heat spreaders have space.

Make SURE you screw the isolation tube in correctly!!! It should turn easily, it should NOT go in the entire way and you should have the cutout shoulder show about 1mm above the hot block. Now screw in the extruder tip until it seats against the isolation tube. If it goes all the way in and sits against the hot block, then remove it and screw your isolation tube further in.

Now insert the heater core and thermocouple cans. They may require pushing with a monkey wrench, be careful. LAST fold and trim the end material and tape over everything , including the ends one last time. Make sure there is no kaptin on the isolation tube, extruder tip, etc.

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jmp
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby jmp » Sat Aug 20, 2016 12:25 pm

woofy wrote:Adding a z-hop is not an option, it adds another 600 hours to a 43 hour print.

z-hop will add time but no where near 600 hours to a 43 hour print. With your print I can't image it adding more than 10 hours or so.
RL Name: Jason Preuss Thingiverse: JMP Youtube:http://youtube.com/c/patterntoprint Website: http://www.patterntoprint.com

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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: X axis slipping

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Sat Aug 20, 2016 3:12 pm

woofy wrote:How do I do that?
All I can see is incremental movements of 10mm max.


Home the X and Y axis first. Then input 10mm or 1mm until the below value reach to 305. Check one direction first. Then the other.

But it seems your problem is due to nozzle hitting model. Not a axis problem.


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