Project: The next heated bed

Topics around mechanical design, controller and electronics. Mods & hacks welcome.
firesped
Posts: 854
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:23 pm
Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby firesped » Sun Apr 16, 2017 2:09 am

I've been working on the configuration right now on the repetier firmware. while there are some settings that I have not figured out yet. I've had to select the temp sensors. I thought it would be important to make this post. if you have changed the temperature sensor on the bed, you need to update that in the firmware.
RL name: Michael Nolen
printers:
raise3D N2 kickstarter Early Bird
Trinus Deluxe (running smoothieware on Azteeg X5 GT board)
Monoprice Maker Select v2

firesped
Posts: 854
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:23 pm
Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby firesped » Sat May 13, 2017 12:40 am

I'm putting the original bed leveling mod on my printer right now. though I bought parts from mcmaster carr instead of printing things. I am curious about how to get the power cover. actually there are a couple of spare parts I would like to get right now but I'm not sure how to get them.
RL name: Michael Nolen
printers:
raise3D N2 kickstarter Early Bird
Trinus Deluxe (running smoothieware on Azteeg X5 GT board)
Monoprice Maker Select v2

socke
Posts: 239
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 2:55 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby socke » Sat May 13, 2017 7:13 am


firesped
Posts: 854
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:23 pm
Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby firesped » Sat May 13, 2017 7:09 pm

thank you
RL name: Michael Nolen
printers:
raise3D N2 kickstarter Early Bird
Trinus Deluxe (running smoothieware on Azteeg X5 GT board)
Monoprice Maker Select v2

FreedomRules
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:34 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby FreedomRules » Mon Jan 29, 2018 12:47 am

Awesome mod. I'm wanting to print polycarbonate and seems you want at least 130C to do that. Maybe I'm blind and I didn't see it but whats the max stable bed temp you can hit with this. I was looking at bed heaters from Keenovo as they seem pretty powerful beds and they seem to have a well diversified heating element portfolio.

ABH
Posts: 182
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 7:31 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby ABH » Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:06 am

I recently started printing with polycarbonate (Polymaker PC-max) and I am actually very excited about it.
It is recommended to use Buildtak and the PC-max sticks extremely well to it. So well that at times it is very difficult to get the model off the Buildtak without destroying the Buildtak.
I printed at 110 °C. I believe if you go any higher with Buildtak you will increase the risk of the adhesive slipping between Buildtak and the glass plate, i.e. the model will pull the Buildtak off the glass plate. This is already a problem when printing at 110 °C, because the PC likes to warp a lot and the adhesive gets "soft".
I'm looking for an alternative to Buildtak, but haven't experimented with other surfaces yet.
I agree that Sockes build plate is awesome. All printers should be equipped with a build plate of casted aluminum. That is the correct technical solution. The thick aluminum will take longer to heat up, but once heated, it shouldn't consume more power to maintain a stable temperature than the stock build plate. So, I would claim that you should be able to obtain the same max. temperature with this design, as with the stock, using the same heating power.

FreedomRules
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:34 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby FreedomRules » Mon Jan 29, 2018 4:33 pm

I'm curious if you have cracks after printing. On an article I read it stated that if you can't heat the bed up to 130C your parts are likely going to crack. The Raise3D was one of the tested printers. I just ordered a sheet of build surface from Geckotek. We will see how it works vs Buildtak. I was going to order the updated Buildtak with the magnetic release but if I think I'm going to do the bed upgrade and go with a heater from Keenovo as I think you can get upwards of 260C with there beds. So I'm going to research build plates that can handle that kind of heat. Then you might start running into issues with chamber temp getting high enough other mods would become required. I also read a decent article on materials that require a heated chamber and they were using directed IR heat at the object to reduce chamber temp but maintain require heat on the object.

ABH
Posts: 182
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2016 7:31 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby ABH » Mon Jan 29, 2018 5:32 pm

I didn't have any cracks after printing. The parts are extremely tough with good dimensional accuracy. PC-max from Polymaker might be different than PC from other manufacturers. Polymaker recommend a heatbed temperature of 80 °C. I went up to 110 °C, mostly because PC-max really likes a lot of heat. I also printed with nozzle temp. of 270 °C (= max. recommended temp.) to get max. layer adhesion. I usually insulate the top of the printer with blankets and preheats the chamber for some time before starting the print.
I only printed quite small technical objects like X x Y = 30 x 40 mm. Overhang and bridging performance is good. There is minimal oozing and the visual result is very nice. As I wrote, I am very excited about PC-max. It is a very good engineering material. I tried to make a PC slurry by dissolving PC in acetone, but that didn't work, it won't dissolve. Some other solvent is need for that purpose. The plan was to use the slurry on kapton tape, like I use ABS juice on kapton for ABS printing. Some have reported that you can use ABS juice on kapton for printing PC, so I will probably try that and also try glue stick on kapton. Buildtak works fine, but it seems to be too expensive, if it only lasts for a few prints.

firesped
Posts: 854
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:23 pm
Location: Tucson, AZ

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby firesped » Tue Jan 30, 2018 4:12 pm

I've had no issues with cracks with the ePC i've been using.
RL name: Michael Nolen
printers:
raise3D N2 kickstarter Early Bird
Trinus Deluxe (running smoothieware on Azteeg X5 GT board)
Monoprice Maker Select v2

DeX
Posts: 100
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 6:56 am

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby DeX » Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:45 am

Hey guys, what are u printing with PC and PCMAX.. just curious :)

socke
Posts: 239
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 2:55 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby socke » Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:58 am

FreedomRules wrote:Awesome mod. I'm wanting to print polycarbonate and seems you want at least 130C to do that. Maybe I'm blind and I didn't see it but whats the max stable bed temp you can hit with this. I was looking at bed heaters from Keenovo as they seem pretty powerful beds and they seem to have a well diversified heating element portfolio.


I didn't test for a maximum bed temperature, as the hardpaper (Pertinax) I'm using shouldn't be heated too much. The maximum what I used so far was 110°C or 115°C for ePC, if I remember right.

A6y_N0rma1
Posts: 18
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 5:25 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby A6y_N0rma1 » Thu Aug 16, 2018 11:48 pm

For those that want to upgrade the power supply to handle a larger heater, Mean Well makes a 1000W version that's about the same size as the 450W version expect it's 0.6" longer. But using a SSR and a mains driven heater is much cheaper.

FreedomRules
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:34 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby FreedomRules » Fri Aug 17, 2018 2:45 am

I finally found a supplier in the USA for a cast milled 3/8 aluminum plate. https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/stor ... mplateatp5 tolerance is .015" on flatness and .0015" on thickness. I'd like the flatness a litter tighter on its tolerance but will try it first before continuing the venture to find a machine shop who will do a small job. I figure .015 is way better than the massive amount its off now. Bad enough I haven't used this printer in months until I get the new bed plate installed.

I tried finding a machine shop to grind me one locally and you'd think being in the so called air capitol of the world I could find one but none of them wanted to do anything for under10k. I'll post what I used and did when finished. In all fairness its not much different than what socke did. I didn't make the bed size smaller like he did and I went with a 120v vs a 220v bed heater.

FreedomRules
Posts: 46
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:34 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby FreedomRules » Tue Sep 18, 2018 3:25 am

Wiring temp sensor. Did you add the 10k pull-up resistor and maintain 3 wire hookup or did you just do the 5v and ground and skip the sensor pin while still changing the setting in the Marlin firmware #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 11? That or use completely different pins on the board? Only difference on my setup is I went with a 120v keenovo heater version since I'm in the USA.

socke
Posts: 239
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 2:55 pm

Re: Project: The next heated bed

Postby socke » Tue Sep 18, 2018 2:11 pm

If I remember right, I built a 3 wire cable (or modified the existing one?) with a 1/4 Watt wired pullup resistor near the plug. I directly plugged this into the original socket on the main board. So in Marlin I didn't change any pin configuration, just the sensor type.


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