Twisting hot end and trouble levelling extruder nozzels after reassembly

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Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 12:07 am

Twisting hot end and trouble levelling extruder nozzels after reassembly

Postby Spikeysonic » Thu Mar 09, 2017 1:24 am

Still having problems with reassembly of extruder 2.

I went to load PLA in the extruder 2 and the hot end (The bottom part between the heat sink and nozzle) twisted and seems to be held or being forced by torque from the hot end probes, so keeps twisting back if try and fix it) I tried to turn the middle brass grub screw tight, I don't know if the screw head could be worn and needs replacing ... (if so any advice on how I get it out ie superglue end of a allan key or you got a better idea?

Also can you advise on re-levelling the nozzles as I keep setting it wrong so it scraped on the build tac or blocks the nozzles as it moves (if loading they extrude). i tried to use a business card but not sure how you get the nozzles just above it.)

The door side keeps twisting into extruder 1 (Anticlockwise if looking from below) and the rear end into the fan housing .

Is this just a case of the hot end middle grub screw send from bottom layer not tightening or is there another problem and if so what crew will replace it... (Note my heat sink comes in one piece with internal grub screws. Is this a version 1 or 2 hot end?)

I have the assembly tool printed top quality. This levels things out, the twisting appears to happen when inserted in the printer)

Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2017 7:32 pm

Re: Twisting hot end and trouble levelling extruder nozzels after reassembly

Postby cullymoto » Thu Mar 09, 2017 12:08 pm

Where to start. For your heat block turning due to thermostat and heater cartridge cable torque, your nozzle and isolation tube must not be regained together inside the heat block.

You'll need to remove the hot end assembly from the rest of the extruder. Leave the cables in the heat block. Heat everything up. Using tools so that you do not burn your hands, or put torque on the heater cables, loosen the nozzle a turn. Loosen the brass center set screw a turn, tighten the isolation tube. (These are fragile, if it didn't turn easily get everything hotter,) then tighten the nozzle. The nozzle needs to "but up" against the isolation tube inside the heat block, that's what actually holds the heat block from twisting.
You'll need to re-level the heads after this.

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