Leveling is important- that is getting the plate to be the exact same distance from the nozzle in every position.
You make the bed match the logical plane that the nozzle moves in. A dial indicator is the best and fastest way to test and adjust this. You can use a feeler gauge, but it's more tedious. I covered this here which may be more detail than the Raise 3D instructions. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1564&p=13777&hilit=dial#p13777
Z gap is the global concept of how far the nozzle is away from the bed when the bed is homed from the Z switch. This works hand in hand with bed leveling, but they are different things. An unlevel bed will have a non-uniform Z gap.
Now, the tricky part.
Logically, when you home the bed and it hits the switch, the electronics and gcode, this is position 0mm in Z axis. However, you set a mechanical gap of typically 0.2mm using the feeler gauge. So technically, logical Z0 is not true Z0, it's a gap of 0.2mm. So when you slice with ideamaker, frst layer in the gcode is logical Z0, so the nozzle is just at the homed height, but that's 0.2mm above the bed. Again, this is how Ideamaker works.
Simplify 3D works differently. It uses Z0 as true real mechanical Z0 is the nozzle touching the bed. As such, if you set the mechanical Z gap with the 0.2mm feeler gauge, and you use default settings in S3D of first layer height = 100%, then the gcode will lower the bed the layer height from the homed position. If you print with say a 0.2mm layer height, and you mechanically set a 0.2mm Z gap, you get first layer with the nozzle waaaay too high (0.2mm mechanical + 0.2mm commanded gcode move=0.4mm) and does not stick. Again, it's just a difference here but a critical one.
So, the workaround is in S3D, set the first layer height to 50%. Keep your bed Z gap on the tight side of 0.2mm, maybe closer to 0.1mm but ensure it never scrapes anywhere on the bed (bed leveling precision).
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