Print settings for N1 not working with new N2

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NewbPilot
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Location: West Palm Beach, FL
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Print settings for N1 not working with new N2

Postby NewbPilot » Sat Apr 08, 2017 3:06 am

Finding the settings on my new N2 dont work with my N1 profiles. Where I have PETG dialed in PERFECTLY on the N1, it looks like crap on the n2. It looks like a combination of over extruding (goopy and nozzle caked after just 2 layers with TONS of stringing) yet underextruding (spaces between layers, almost looks like nozzle is dragging through it).

Interestingly, my settings on the N1 for PLA is 0.2 layer height with 0.16 first layer. yet on the N2 I had to do 0.2 layer height with 0.25 first layer. I saw there were a few people doing the same in the Raise3D forums. However, neither way worked with the PETG. It'll be a LONG weekend.

I know JetGuy says 0.2 layer and 0.17 (or 80%) for first layer. But I've seen people say 0.2 layer and 0.3 for first layer. I've seen dont use the 0.2mm feeler gauge, or swear by it (I've sworn by it for 9 months on the N1.)

I did check the Z gap, and i did check the 4 corners of the bed after i did. seemed reasonable.

I've tried printing cooler (esun PETG at 248 on N1 all day for 8 hour prints down to 243 on N2). I've tried lowering the flow rate from 98% on the N1 to 96% on the N2.

Any other ideas? Were there changes in the new ideamaker that would need to be considered since i've not used the old slicer for the new machine?

Jetguy
Posts: 1289
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 1:40 am

Re: Print settings for N1 not working with new N2

Postby Jetguy » Sat Apr 08, 2017 3:02 pm

Really need a picture of output to diagnose. That said, there is zero reason for there to be a single setting change. The same basic parts go into both printers. Yes, there are some differences, but from a fundamental standpoint, an N1 and N2/N2Plus are the same extruder, same electronics, same XY motion system (just a different motor mounting).
Which does leave it up to Z axis and bed leveling.

My first guess- with no pictures posted, is the 4 corner method did not result in a proper Z gap in the center. On an N2 and N2Plus with longer rods all the way around, the same mass of extruders can flex the rods in the middle and thus the nozzle will be marginally closer in the center. You have to shoot for middle of the road here- not scraping in the center but also- not so high it won't stick on the outer edges of the build area. This is why a dual extruder setup is not as ideal from a mass perspective and single extruder and lightweight feeder system upgrades do make a difference.

Also, at least my earlybird N2 kickstarter printer, I never realized how bad the glass was non flat and stock buildtack issues until I bought a new plate from Raise and also comparison of my recent N2 Plus printer- both had perfect plates. I slap in that original earlybird glass +buildtack, it's horrible. (I was using windows glass with hairspray since day 2, so only gave it a few goes on the stock plate and then it was collecting dust).

NewbPilot
Posts: 204
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2016 2:16 am
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Contact:

Re: Print settings for N1 not working with new N2

Postby NewbPilot » Sat Apr 08, 2017 7:03 pm

I always appreciate your replies!

So, this is a single extruder N2, I learned from my Dual N1 that I dont use it enough to justify the cost.

From what I understand with the new N2s. they are "Factory Leveled" so there is no 4-corner leveling any more. I just adjust the Z-Gap and in theory it's level all around. However, it's not. Right side is definitely higher than right, so that when I have the right side 0.2mm with feeler gauge, the left side will allow the gauge to slide under the nozzle completely un-touched! If i set the z-gap to 0.2mm on the left side, the right side is pressing into the glass and the gauge cant even be squeezed under. I have photos of the output, but mostly they are failure prints.

I did not think I would need to change settings, but indeed printing small PLA items in a 30x30mm level space requires the first layer to be 0.3mm with the remaining 0.2mm or it wont stick. That's not how my N1 works, where the first layer is 0.16mm for 0.2mm layer height. And PETG is a literal mess using either method, as I tried a PETG 20mm calib cube 4 different ways before giving up last night.

I do know that when Joel Telling got his N2+ last year, his bed wasnt level and he had to do something with Tech Support to get it to level. I am probably going to have to give them a call. I was trying to use your suggestion of making the nozzle "close enough" for the far away (left) side but "not too close" for the close side (right) ... but that hasnt worked out for me yet.

I didn't check the glass yet - i can pull it off after this test print to see if it's bad. I already pulled the buildtak off. It was the 2nd thing I did after trying my first print. I printed a test PLA cube, let it cool to room temp and couldnt pry it off with a sharp spatula. Thus, it went in the trash.

Jetguy wrote:Really need a picture of output to diagnose. That said, there is zero reason for there to be a single setting change. The same basic parts go into both printers. Yes, there are some differences, but from a fundamental standpoint, an N1 and N2/N2Plus are the same extruder, same electronics, same XY motion system (just a different motor mounting).
Which does leave it up to Z axis and bed leveling.

My first guess- with no pictures posted, is the 4 corner method did not result in a proper Z gap in the center. On an N2 and N2Plus with longer rods all the way around, the same mass of extruders can flex the rods in the middle and thus the nozzle will be marginally closer in the center. You have to shoot for middle of the road here- not scraping in the center but also- not so high it won't stick on the outer edges of the build area. This is why a dual extruder setup is not as ideal from a mass perspective and single extruder and lightweight feeder system upgrades do make a difference.

Also, at least my earlybird N2 kickstarter printer, I never realized how bad the glass was non flat and stock buildtack issues until I bought a new plate from Raise and also comparison of my recent N2 Plus printer- both had perfect plates. I slap in that original earlybird glass +buildtack, it's horrible. (I was using windows glass with hairspray since day 2, so only gave it a few goes on the stock plate and then it was collecting dust).


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