Poorly Designed Hotend on Pro2

Thoughts about Raise3D, 3D printing and making in general.
Hellsbellsidaho
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2018 1:29 am

Re: Poorly Designed Hotend on Pro2

Postby Hellsbellsidaho » Wed Sep 05, 2018 2:22 pm

Vicky@Raise3D wrote:If you meet any extrusion issue with the PLA spools coming together with printer, please contact our support. We have met several cases which has been solved by replacing hotend.


Are the replacement hot ends exactly the same design as the original or a updated design?

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Vicky@Raise3D
Posts: 4305
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 3:54 am

Re: Poorly Designed Hotend on Pro2

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Wed Sep 05, 2018 9:13 pm

Hellsbellsidaho wrote:
Vicky@Raise3D wrote:If you meet any extrusion issue with the PLA spools coming together with printer, please contact our support. We have met several cases which has been solved by replacing hotend.


Are the replacement hot ends exactly the same design as the original or a updated design?


It's the same design. But we do meet some cases fixed the extrusion issue with the original Raise3D PLA spools with a new hotend.
If you have any extrusion issue with the original PLA spools, please contact our support to request a new hotend.

rivman455
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2018 10:21 pm

Re: Poorly Designed Hotend on Pro2

Postby rivman455 » Fri Sep 21, 2018 4:39 pm

I too have had this issue. Mine got so bad that it fully encased the set screws resulting in the need to replace not only the hot end and nozzle, but also the thermocouple and heating rod. Raise3D warrantied this, and since I have ordered several other hot ends so I can install different size nozzles for quicker swap out. In their provided PDF instructions they call out a very noticeable gap between the nozzle and the heating block, but upon inspection of all 6 hot ends before I removed the stock brass .4mm nozzle I have measured a different gap setting for all of them. Some nozzles were almost flush to the block, others were closer to .4mm gap. But I will say that none of them have a gap anywhere close to the image shown in the instruction PDF. In those instructions they state: "Screw the new nozzle into the heating block. Do not tighten completely. Ensure that there is a visible gap between the nozzle and the heating block" and show a photo of a nozzle with a gap that appears to be between .1mm and .2mm. There doesn't seem to be any hard and fast rule for what this gap should be, nor is there any consistency in installation on their end. I have found that if I DO tighten completely to make sure the nozzle is securely seated against the throat tube, then I make sure there's at least a minuscule air gap. I'm guessing this is to ensure that the nozzle isn't bottoming out before seating against the tube... but if it comes improperly installed from the factory then there is not much one can do.
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04.Pro2 Nozzle Installation Instruction.pdf
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