FAQ

Thoughts about Raise3D, 3D printing and making in general.
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John@Raise3D
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FAQ

Postby John@Raise3D » Mon Mar 28, 2016 1:23 am

Run Dual Nozzle Printer as a Single Nozzle Printer
1.Idle nozzle crushing with model
This is due to the idle nozzle position lower than the working nozzle. Please refer to ‘Left/Right Nozzle Height Adjustment’. You can also remove the idle nozzle if necessary.
2.Remove extra motor to reduce extuder head weight
If you are sure you will not use the other nozzle and you want to reduce the total weight of the extruder head, first remove the extruder cover and unscrew the 4 screws to remove the extruder motor.

Left/Right Nozzle Height Adjustment
Loose the big screw in the front first. Then loose the fan screws and remove the fan. There is a second screw on the side. Loose that screw also and then you can move the whole hot end. Move the whole hot end up and down to adjust the nozzle height.

3rd Party G-code File
N-series printer uses g-code so it is compatible with most 3rd party G-code file.

BuildTak Bubbles
Poke the bubble with a needle to let the air out and then flat the bubble.

Build Volume
All N-series printers have the true build volume as claimed. N1: 205mm*205mm*205mm; N2: 305mm*305mm*305mm; N2+: 305mm*305mm*610mm.

Spool Holder Size and Layout
70mm between the flanges and 32mm in diameters. However, you have to consider the size of the hook and the logo, which is 45mm for the widest part.
Layout is as the picture below.
Spool holder postion.jpg


Nozzle
Current we only offer brass nozzle at 0.4mm size. We will release bigger size nozzles and also nozzles made with harder materials for powder filled filaments.

Shipping Cost and Warehouse Pick-up
You can choose air shipping and we have a price on the website.
If you are in EU or US, you can also choose sea shipping first and then use domestic ground shipping. This will take you a few extra weeks to receive the printer comparing to air.
If you are in US, we have a warehouse in Carson, CA and you can arrange a pick up from there. Please contact us at support@raise3d.com for the arrangement. Please notice that you will need a pick-up truck or large van to transport the printer safely and you will need to keep the whole package upward to prevent damaging.
Packaging sizes are as below (L*W*H, cm):
N1: 60*49*83, 32 Kg
N2: 72*72*95, 53 Kg
N2+: 72*72*124, 65 Kg

LED Light and Cooling Fan
Both are designed to be on all the time. There is no feature to turn them off at this moment.

Battery and Resume Function
Since the printer usually will take weeks on the road, the battery will become empty. You need to charge the battery to full before turning off or being able to use the resume function. The latest touchscreen firmware has a feature of showing battery volume on the touchscreen. Please keep the printer on till it reaches 100%.

ideaMaker Sliced File
1.When slicing with ideaMaker, it will generate 2 files. The g-code file is used to perform printing and the data file is used to present printing process on touchscreen. It is important to have both files for printing.
2.Please be aware of that ideaMaker is using the unit of cm instead of inches. If your stl file is drawn based on inches, you need to manually re-size the model in ideaMaker.
3.The print time estimation may differ from actual time consumed. It will update itself along the printing process.

Nuts and screws
For N1, all nuts and screws should be tight, except 2 screws for Z axis. For N2 and N2+, only the 8 screws for Z axis (4 on each side) should be loose.

Bed Leveling
You can adjust N1 leveling by turning the screws under the heat bed. Press the ‘leveling’ icon on the touchscreen and follow the instructions.
N2 and N2+ are pre-leveled in the factory. You don’t need to level them. If the gap between the nozzle and the print plate is too big or small, you can adjust the Z home position to change it. The thumb screw is in the from left corner of the printer and turn one round is 0.5mm in height.

Camera App
Instruction here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/deepcam/Get+Started+with+Deepcam+Cube+Security+Camera.pdf
If you have any technical questions, please contact rmoreno@mysnapcam.com.
If you have any other questions, please contact support@raise3d.com.

Unusual Noise When printing
Apply additional lubrication and check all the screws.

Heat bed max temperature
Heat bed max temperature set point is 110C. If it reaches 120C, it will initiate an auto shut down of the heat bed.

Leaky Bearings
See picture here. It is normal and you can simply wipe it out.
leak bearing.png

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Trhuster
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Re: FAQ

Postby Trhuster » Mon Mar 28, 2016 7:12 am

"Nuts and screws
For N1, all nuts and screws should be tight."

Is that really true? On mine the two screws that holds the ballbearingnut was loose when printer came from factory. I put some loctite on the screws and tighten the screws ever so gently so i have no play in Z but still can rotate the ballbearingnut sideways. This becuse top off the ballscrew is fixed. If the top was floating yes we could tighten the nut down.

Working fine this way for me atleas. Mabey i will free the top at some point but it was really hard to get loose philps screws mounted there instead off hex.

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Derek@Raise3D
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Re: FAQ

Postby Derek@Raise3D » Mon Mar 28, 2016 7:22 am

Trhuster wrote:"Nuts and screws
For N1, all nuts and screws should be tight."

Is that really true? On mine the two screws that holds the ballbearingnut was loose when printer came from factory. I put some loctite on the screws and tighten the screws ever so gently so i have no play in Z but still can rotate the ballbearingnut sideways. This becuse top off the ballscrew is fixed. If the top was floating yes we could tighten the nut down.

Working fine this way for me atleas. Mabey i will free the top at some point but it was really hard to get loose philps screws mounted there instead off hex.

Trhuster, the z axis screws are designed to be loose. If you tighten them, z wobble problem will appear. Those loose screws are designed to eliminate the difference of the assembly.
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Trhuster
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Re: FAQ

Postby Trhuster » Mon Mar 28, 2016 8:11 am

Derek@Raise3D wrote:Trhuster, the z axis screws are designed to be loose. If you tighten them, z wobble problem will appear. Those loose screws are designed to eliminate the difference of the assembly.


Yea Derek that is my point but the text in the FAQ says: "Nuts and screws For N1, all nuts and screws should be tight."

So mabey change that part about N1 in the FAQ.

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John@Raise3D
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Re: FAQ

Postby John@Raise3D » Mon Mar 28, 2016 9:36 am

Trhuster wrote:
Derek@Raise3D wrote:Trhuster, the z axis screws are designed to be loose. If you tighten them, z wobble problem will appear. Those loose screws are designed to eliminate the difference of the assembly.


Yea Derek that is my point but the text in the FAQ says: "Nuts and screws For N1, all nuts and screws should be tight."

So mabey change that part about N1 in the FAQ.


Changed. Thanks for pointing out.

John W
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Re: FAQ

Postby John W » Sun Apr 24, 2016 4:37 pm

Hello everyone,
I missed the Kick Starter last year and I'm thinking about picking up the n1 model I just had a few question I hadn't been able to find answers to:
First, I haven't seen any warranty information online or on the forums. What is the warranty for the n1?
Second, are new batches of printers coming with the V2 hot end or is it available as a pre-installed upgrade?

Zettlinger
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Re: FAQ

Postby Zettlinger » Sun Apr 24, 2016 10:45 pm

All new machines will have the v2 extruder(s) standard and as i recall 1yr waranty (excl normal wear like nozzles, buildtak etc)

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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: FAQ

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:47 am

John W wrote:Hello everyone,
I missed the Kick Starter last year and I'm thinking about picking up the n1 model I just had a few question I hadn't been able to find answers to:
First, I haven't seen any warranty information online or on the forums. What is the warranty for the n1?
Second, are new batches of printers coming with the V2 hot end or is it available as a pre-installed upgrade?


Hi John,

Every printer has one-year warranty except wearing parts.
All the new printers have replaced to V2 already.

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2CNK
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Re: FAQ

Postby 2CNK » Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:15 pm

I have a new N2 and the FAQ above says

Nuts and screws
For N1, all nuts and screws should be tight, except 2 screws for Z axis. For N2 and N2+, only the 8 screws for Z axis (4 on each side) should be loose.


I only see four screws total, not eight. I have one of these on each side. What am I missing?

Image



Also, I am only supposed to loosen the screws, and not remove anything? Everything says just loosen but the diagram in the quickstart says REMOVE!"

Image
Last edited by 2CNK on Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:20 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Jetguy
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Re: FAQ

Postby Jetguy » Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:18 pm

You have to remove not only the screw, but the entire 3d printed plastic brackets.
They are just there to prevent the leadscrews from rotating during shipping and the bed moving.

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2CNK
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Re: FAQ

Postby 2CNK » Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:19 pm

Thanks, it's not really clear from the terminology and I'm not 100% sure of the purpose of that part so I didn't feel sure one way or the other.
e: I guess the eight screws instead of four is just a typo.
Last edited by 2CNK on Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Jetguy
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Re: FAQ

Postby Jetguy » Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:24 pm

That's all fine and dandy to be unsure, but, I will warn you that there are going to be a lot more complex tasks, adjustments, and other mechanical details that require some intuition. The manuals, documentation, and guides are not yet all encompassing.

Just giving you a fair warning up front.

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2CNK
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Re: FAQ

Postby 2CNK » Thu Jun 16, 2016 5:28 pm

Yeah, I'm starting to get that feeling. I built one of the original Makerbots years ago so I at least have a general idea of what's what when I look at things.

Just nervous about making too far an intuitive leap on a multi-thousand dollar machine. I think I'm getting a feel for where the documentation and stuff is and isn't, though.

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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: FAQ

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Fri Jun 17, 2016 2:19 am

e: I guess the eight screws instead of four is just a typo.


The 8 screws refer to the 8 screws fix the Z screw rod to build plate. Nothing related to unboxing.
Attachments
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Vicky@Raise3D
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Re: FAQ

Postby Vicky@Raise3D » Fri Jun 17, 2016 2:25 am

We are uploading a unboxing video to YouTube which can explain the unboxing steps much clearer.

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redUFO
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Re: FAQ

Postby redUFO » Tue Aug 09, 2016 5:26 pm

I have a basic noob question.

I've read about other 3D printers and they lay down blue masking tape to the heat bed before they print an object? Are we supposed to be that too? Or is is okay to just print right on the heat bed? I'm just wondering how much wear and tear that bed will take removing parts stuck to it with the blade tool to remove it? Maybe the bed will last longer if blue tape is put down?

I'm just wondering what the best practices are.
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jmp
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Re: FAQ

Postby jmp » Tue Aug 09, 2016 11:56 pm

redUFO wrote:I have a basic noob question.

I've read about other 3D printers and they lay down blue masking tape to the heat bed before they print an object? Are we supposed to be that too? Or is is okay to just print right on the heat bed? I'm just wondering how much wear and tear that bed will take removing parts stuck to it with the blade tool to remove it? Maybe the bed will last longer if blue tape is put down?

I'm just wondering what the best practices are.


Blue tape was usually used for PLA on unheated beds. Nothing wrong with using blue tape but not needed with the Buildtek covering. Yes that covering will at some point wear out and you will need to decide whether to purchase more or to use some other method to get prints to stick. I personally use the aquanet hair spay method, easy if you are US based tough to find elsewhere, but there are several solutions, you might want to look through previous posts on what others have done.
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dorbar
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Re: FAQ

Postby dorbar » Sat Jan 14, 2017 10:56 pm

Derek@Raise3D wrote:Trhuster, the z axis screws are designed to be loose. If you tighten them, z wobble problem will appear. Those loose screws are designed to eliminate the difference of the assembly.

This is extremely bad, bad idea! If you have a wobbling, then there is something wrong with a design concept! The ballscrew nut MUST be tightened! If not the holes in the support plate allow the ballscrew nut to rotate with the screw considerably. Taking in account that the "pitch" of the screw is 5mm and if you allow the nut to rotate just a few degrees you can get unleveled bad in a range of 0,1 to 0,3 mm .
Meaning that the parts being printed might not stick to the bed due to difference of height over the bed.
Though, there is a solution. In mechanical engineering we ALWAYS, I'll repeat, ALWAYS leave one end free to actually move and we tighten the other end! But time and time again I witness in Chinese designed machinery (the cheap ones) that the either leave both end untighten or both ends screwed all the way. So, the solution in this case would be to tighten well one ballscrew nut and leave the other "slightly" untighten. But only and onyl if there are other problems - namely with bended guides or ballscrew as a consequence of a long rods in N2+ specially.
To finish, the engineer who chose this design wouldn't pass the exam in mine Basic Engineering Design class.

Please reconsider this bad design choice!

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Re: FAQ

Postby Jetguy » Sun Jan 15, 2017 12:37 am

While I agree with the aspects of what you said about the leadscrews, the problem is i have tested both ways.
I did take my entire machine apart (because that's the only way to get the bearings at the top of the leadscrews out) tightened the nuts solidly to the Z stage, and there was a slight but visible Z wobble artifact in perfectly straight walls. I then reverted back (again, major teardown and rebuild to install the bearings back) and the loose nuts plus bearings at the top worked better than your described alternative.

I get it, I too initially suggested the same thing- do not constrain the top of the leadscrews and tighten the nuts. The problem is, real world testing disproved the theory.


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