Model release

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Titon
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Model release

Postby Titon » Fri Mar 16, 2018 10:48 am

Hello all,

First post here. Just received my Raise yesterday. I know this has probably been said before but what does everyone use to release the model after printing? This is my first go around with the build tack surface that comes with the Raise and the little test cube i printed stuck really well!

Can you folks give me an idea what is the best options out there to help get the models off of the plate after printing? Do you guys usually remove the entire glass build sheet out of the printer when do this?

Thanks

Titon
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Re: Model release

Postby Titon » Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:53 pm

Was able to release the model using a can of compressed air upside down to loosen the corners. Then slowly run the chisel around the outside edge and released like a charm.

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Noren
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Re: Model release

Postby Noren » Tue Mar 20, 2018 10:00 pm

I used a thin painter metal spatula. Push the corner in first. Then carefully wiggle it in. I think it’s easier to do if the plate hasn’t cooled.

DragonXtreme
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Re: Model release

Postby DragonXtreme » Tue Mar 20, 2018 10:39 pm

I recently received my N2+ and the first print I did on it was a bear to get off, the surface it came with does a real good job of adhesion. I used the painters putty knife the unit came with as well as some others I had of various thickness and sharpness of the edge. After the 3 print and wrestling getting the part to release, keep in mind I also varied the offset of the 1st layer making sure I just wasn't to close to the bed, I opted to start using Magigoo based on what I saw 3D Printing Nerd using it for. I just finish my 15th print, the last one lasted 33 hours and no failures due to broken adhesion on the last 10 parts and all just popped off the plate after letting it cool to room temperature. If I had to recommend something that I have found amazingly easy to use it would probably be that, at least on the build tak with PLA. I have yet to print other filaments like ABS, Polycarb, and filled filaments along with using a glass only surface but that will come in time.

:)

EL Cuajinais
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Re: Model release

Postby EL Cuajinais » Wed Mar 21, 2018 1:17 am

Remove the plate and rub ice on the opposite side of where the print sits. Less practical than the upside down compressed air but a lot cheaper. This is especially effective for large prints with large surface areas. The prints pop off.

Titon
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Re: Model release

Postby Titon » Thu Mar 22, 2018 12:41 pm

Thanks guys. I appreciate the responses.

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Noren
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Re: Model release

Postby Noren » Thu Mar 22, 2018 12:47 pm

A side note. When I print ABS on PEI its really easy to make it come if I drop a small amount of aceton around the base of the print.

EldRick
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Re: Model release

Postby EldRick » Fri Mar 23, 2018 5:09 pm

Remove the plate and rub ice on the opposite side of where the print sits.

Be sure that the glass is cooled down to room temperature before using ice on it, or you will surely crack the glass plate. A better method is to allow the plate to cool and then put the whole plate into the freezer for a few minutes. This will shrink the plastic part more than the glass, and release will be easy.

EL Cuajinais
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Re: Model release

Postby EL Cuajinais » Sat Mar 24, 2018 2:49 pm

EldRick wrote:
Remove the plate and rub ice on the opposite side of where the print sits.

Be sure that the glass is cooled down to room temperature before using ice on it, or you will surely crack the glass plate. A better method is to allow the plate to cool and then put the whole plate into the freezer for a few minutes. This will shrink the plastic part more than the glass, and release will be easy.

I wait for it to cool somewhat but certainly not to room temperature. I'd say about 50 C and I've never had a problem. Of course this assumes you have an original borosilicate glass bed. If you've replaced it with regular glass then you can easily break it.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borosilicate_glass

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Casale8
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Re: Model release

Postby Casale8 » Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:11 pm

Remove the glass and buildtak
Set on soft surface, I use the original shipping foam that the glass has shipped in
Putty knife Flat edge to bed - as close to the bed and bottom of model as possible
One hand holds the putty knife
The other hand gives a firm but controlled wack

ouila! free model
-SCC
“One man's "magic" is another man's engineering. "Supernatural" is a null word.” -R.A.Heinlein

NewbPilot
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Re: Model release

Postby NewbPilot » Thu Mar 29, 2018 1:43 pm

I have removed the buildtak on both my N2 and N1 ... it was the first thing I did before the first print. Hairspray on Glass works for TPU, PETG, PLA and I think ABS, but I dont print ABS. Then, let the plate cool to Room Temp (ie, under 30c) and it should literally pop off itself, or with a slight nudge from a paint scraper.

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DrewPetitclerc
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Re: Model release

Postby DrewPetitclerc » Thu Mar 29, 2018 10:04 pm

NewbPilot wrote:I have removed the buildtak on both my N2 and N1 ... it was the first thing I did before the first print. Hairspray on Glass works for TPU, PETG, PLA and I think ABS, but I dont print ABS. Then, let the plate cool to Room Temp (ie, under 30c) and it should literally pop off itself, or with a slight nudge from a paint scraper.

I do hope you are removing the glass build plate from inside the printer and spraying it away from the printer insides, there have been some users that spray the plate while it is inside the printer, giant mistake! and what an awful sticky gummy mess it makes of the moving components and electronics inside the machines, then these users are surprised when the printer stops working properly.
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Titon
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Re: Model release

Postby Titon » Sat Mar 31, 2018 1:49 pm

I find the buildtak working pretty nice now. I simply remove the plate and set it on a flat surface allow it too cool for a bit hit the model with a couple shot's of an upside down can of compressed air and it pops right off.

tja
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Re: Model release

Postby tja » Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:05 am

Buildtak is okay, but has significant limitations. I have some PLA that sticks a bit too well to and found that a short woodworker's chisel is much better than the scraper supplied. I leave the glass in place in my N1 and very carefully ease the chisel under the corners/edges of the part. With patience this will pop the part off the table. Frequently when using PLA, the part modifies the surface of the Buildtak, leaving a permanent lighter 'shadow' of the part visible on the surface afterwards. This affects the finish on subsequent parts printed on that part of the plate. When I started using different materials, mostly PETG and TPU, I found that Buildtak was unreliable. I had a number of mishaps where the part was stuck so well that it ripped when I tried to remove he part.

To overcome all of this, I started to print directly onto the glass surface. The glass needs to be clean, but when you get the temperatures right (and the bed level and gap adjusted suitably) then the magic happens! You get a beautiful 'glass-like' surface finish where the part is in contact with the bed and, when it cools down sufficiently, the part just lifts off the glass. Happy days!!

So now I print almost exclusively straight onto the glass with all my materials notably PETG, PLA, ASA and PA. The latter with a little acetone to make an ASA slurry. I should point out that some people on Youtube have had material stick too well to glass and ended up with chunks ripped out of their borosilicate glass beds!

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JohnSays
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Re: Model release

Postby JohnSays » Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:24 am

I have found that the easiest way to get a model to release from a surface it is really stuck to is to place a few squirts of alcohol around the edge of the part - any or all edges available inside or out. Capillary action will pull the liquid under the print and often the most stuck ABS prints will just float free. I keep a dropper bottle of ethanol by each printer and as soon as the printer stops, I start squirting. It will evaporate of course too, but a lot of it will get under the print and release it. I stopped chiseling and banging on my prints months ago once I learned about this. I will also use a deburred Scottypeeler to get just a bit under the part to hurry the alcohol under the print if I am in a hurry.
- John
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NewbPilot
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Re: Model release

Postby NewbPilot » Fri May 11, 2018 11:47 pm

DrewPetitclerc wrote:
NewbPilot wrote:I have removed the buildtak on both my N2 and N1 ... it was the first thing I did before the first print. Hairspray on Glass works for TPU, PETG, PLA and I think ABS, but I dont print ABS. Then, let the plate cool to Room Temp (ie, under 30c) and it should literally pop off itself, or with a slight nudge from a paint scraper.

I do hope you are removing the glass build plate from inside the printer and spraying it away from the printer insides, there have been some users that spray the plate while it is inside the printer, giant mistake! and what an awful sticky gummy mess it makes of the moving components and electronics inside the machines, then these users are surprised when the printer stops working properly.
Regards
Drew


I CANT BELIEVE It's taken me so long to return to the forum!

While I appreciate your advice, I've absolutely never considered spraying in my printers :) I do sometimes spray on a microfiber cloth and wipe the bed with it to get another print or two before cleaning and re-applying hairspray, however. My printers are going nicely since 2016/early 2017 :)

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jmp
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Re: Model release

Postby jmp » Sat May 12, 2018 12:22 pm

NewbPilot wrote:
DrewPetitclerc wrote:I do hope you are removing the glass build plate from inside the printer and spraying it away from the printer insides, there have been some users that spray the plate while it is inside the printer, giant mistake! and what an awful sticky gummy mess it makes of the moving components and electronics inside the machines, then these users are surprised when the printer stops working properly.
Regards
Drew


While I appreciate your advice, I've absolutely never considered spraying in my printers :) I do sometimes spray on a microfiber cloth and wipe the bed with it to get another print or two before cleaning and re-applying hairspray, however. My printers are going nicely since 2016/early 2017 :)


So is this "don't use hairspray in your printer" just theory or have there been users whose printers have seized up from overspray? I used to be very careful about removing my built plates for spraying but the N2+ glass is so big I have gotten lazy. After over two years, thousands of print hours and hundreds of prints, I have had zero issues related to my carefully spaying Aquanet on the installed glass. Of course YMMV.
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Jetguy
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Re: Model release

Postby Jetguy » Sat May 12, 2018 12:34 pm

I have used hairspray in every printer from day 1 of owning, and never, ever, ever, had overspray get on the rods and bearings or gum up. This is year 3 on the original N2 and N1 of the same year, both with hairspray sprayed inside the printer at the bed at close distance (to reduce overspray) and I spray with the bed hot (80C preheated and actually hot at temp for 10 minutes prior to spraying). My N2 Plus was Bought Feb of last year, and it too, same sequence, it's just the newest of the 3.

NewbPilot
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Re: Model release

Postby NewbPilot » Sat May 19, 2018 12:42 pm

Jetguy wrote:I have used hairspray in every printer from day 1 of owning, and never, ever, ever, had overspray get on the rods and bearings or gum up. This is year 3 on the original N2 and N1 of the same year, both with hairspray sprayed inside the printer at the bed at close distance (to reduce overspray) and I spray with the bed hot (80C preheated and actually hot at temp for 10 minutes prior to spraying). My N2 Plus was Bought Feb of last year, and it too, same sequence, it's just the newest of the 3.


Ok, im seriously laughing reading this. I recall when I first got my Wanhao in 2016 and both raise3d in 17 actually asking a question about this and never getting a reply. I figured i never got a reply because it was ABSURD to think it was ok to spray near or in/on the machine.

Lesson learned :)


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