More on removing parts with alcohol

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JohnSays
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Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2016 2:42 pm
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL

More on removing parts with alcohol

Postby JohnSays » Fri Apr 21, 2017 5:29 pm

As many of you know, I posted about how to get ABS parts off of PEI using alcohol (viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1475).

I have now confirmed that this method also works on BuildTak and kapton tape. I had some PETG parts stuck very tightly to the tape and I did not want to ruin the tape so I placed alcohol all around the part and inside the openings that lead to the bottom of the part. Then I waited a bit and the parts came loose. One needed a little help from my scraper.

I had some trouble getting one of my ABS parts to come off my PEI build plate with alcohol. I made it with eSun ABS+, so it did not shrink much and had a lot of surface area. I found that placing the alcohol around the part and then just getting a bit of my very sharp scraper under the part caused the alcohol to be sucked right under the part and then the part came free as nicely as can be. One note of caution: It happens all at once. That is, you have to watch out for when the part breaks free because there is no gradient. I just about took the end of my finger off because I was holding the part from the back and the part popped free and the scraper went full force into my finger. Ouch and blood.

I just now took a break to check on the alcohol around some more eSun ABS+ parts and found that the parts had again not broken free. So I applied some more alcohol -- the last batch dried up on the hot bed -- and then stuck the scraper edge under the part a very small distance and then stopped pushing. I then applied alcohol to that small opening and waited a few seconds. Sure enough, the alcohol got sucked under and the part started separated from the plate. A little nudging with the scraper and off it came.

This method seems to be very workable with a little intelligence applied to each situation. I wonder if there are even better solvents that will work? If my theory about why this works is correct, that would mean a fluid with a very low surface tension is what makes this work. Alcohol is very low at about 20 dynes/cm compared to water at about 73. Adding dish soap to water lowers its surface tension, so what happens if dish soap is added to alcohol? I'll go get my white coat and report back.
- John
2 Raise3D N2 Duals, V2 nozzles, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection resistors on motion controller board, Firmware 1.1.8ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette+

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Mecha_Monster
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Re: More on removing parts with alcohol

Postby Mecha_Monster » Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:31 pm

Very useful information John,

I read your first post and try it myself with PC. It was just a small experiment, but so far I think it may also work with Polycarbonate-base filaments.

It really helps to lengthen the lifespan of the buildplate; the constant removal of the prints was ripping apart my buildtak.

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JohnSays
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Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2016 2:42 pm
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL

Re: More on removing parts with alcohol

Postby JohnSays » Fri Apr 21, 2017 8:20 pm

Cool Mecha! Thanks for the feedback.
- John
2 Raise3D N2 Duals, V2 nozzles, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection resistors on motion controller board, Firmware 1.1.8ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette+

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JohnSays
Posts: 601
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2016 2:42 pm
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL

Re: More on removing parts with alcohol

Postby JohnSays » Sun May 27, 2018 1:37 am

A little more on using alcohol to remove stuck parts: I have returned to using PEI as my build plate of choice after trying other surfaces such as Lokbite. I have found for my purposes PEI works the best for me with large ABS prints. The last set of build plates I put together were sanded with 1500 grit. My alcohol trick was not working nearly as good as I expected it to. Then I had an idea. I re-sanded my plate with 800 grit. The next print was easier to get off. So I tried 600 grit. Yes! Totally awesome. I print an ABS part and it is really stuck. It is that stuck because I squish the plastic down to remove the majority of the print lines. So it is really squished. I really don't want shrinkage to warp these parts because they have lots of plastic -- 6 shells and 25% infill. So if they are not truly stuck down they will warp. Even at that, placing some alcohol around the edges causes them to simply float off with zero effort.
- John
2 Raise3D N2 Duals, V2 nozzles, Bondtech BMGs, adjustable table, Panucatt SD2224 drivers, run-out sensor, thermal overload protection resistors on motion controller board, Firmware 1.1.8ABH - with Lin_Advance, Palette+


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