Raising the standard cover

[Ronvp]

I find the height of current cover height a little too low. It causing stress on the tubes (poor filament feed) and the tubes are rubbing against the top of the cover. I decided to draft and print a few pieces to Raise (no pun intended) the cover by about 1-11/16" (+/- 42.86 mm). So total height is now 8"

Basically, there is a single corner piece (print 4 x) and 2 connectors (Short + long), so print 2 of each. After printing you push the pieces together (optionally glue them together) and done.. (I am printing now and will post the 3MF files and the GCode files when I have confirmed it all works/fits

Below is a assembly drawing showing what it looks like and some of the details

[Korni]

Yes, please STL File

[Ronvp]

Let me first finish the print to make sure it all fits perfectly

[Korni]

OK

[michaelhauser]

Cool! A couple of years ago I started designing and printed something like this. Actually, I only got as far as designing and printing one corner as a test. The goals were to both raise the height of the cover and also to have a place to attach hinges and gas springs, so that the cover could easily be lifted and stay up (e.g., when printing PLA). I'll find my design and upload it as a comparison. I don't think got past the conceptualization phase with the hinges and springs but I'll have to check.

[KS_Husker]

This is a great idea. I was also wishing they had made the top cover a little taller to give the tubes a little more room and make feeding of the filament easier. Looks like a good design.

[Ronvp]

I am printing as I type this. Should be done tomorrow morning (14hrs from now) I post some pics when done.. I like the idea of adding some hinges and a gas spring.. I will put something together aswell.

Btw.. I too printed a test corner. Perfect fit..

[simon_srp]

How did it go?

Any pics to share? I think another problem is that the tubes are pushing against the sides of the top cover. I think this casused our left guiding tube to bend just above the extruder inlet which stoped the filament to feed causing the filament to be worn off just at the teeth/cogs.

The result was that the printer continues to print, but without any filament. The strange thing is that is happens at exact same print-height. But we found that the tube were bendt. The thing is, in this specific case, is that my detail that I were printing is printed diagonaly across the pringbed and almost maximum what can be fitted into the build area and thats why the tubes getting pushed some extra on the side of the top cover.

[Alex M.]

This was the coolest (replacement) design I saw but the plans were never posted.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6984

[simon_srp]

I saw that one too. But it's a bit to ambitious for me at this point

[Ronvp]

This was the coolest (replacement) design I saw but the plans were never posted.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6984

That is cool... I might do that if I have some time

[Ronvp]

Ok, done printing. had to make an adjustment to the connectors. they were a little too tight.. Here is a PIC, I be posting 3MF and STL files shortly. The corners were printed with 0.25mm resolution to get it done quicker, the connectors at 0.15mm . I will reprint the corners at 0.15 as well.

Note that for the pic, the left corner is also a perfect fit, but the light breaks different on the plastic

[Ronvp]

Here are the 3D files and also a Idea file and the Gcode
Depending on your resolution, be prepared for a 30 to 50 hours print

Raise3D Pro2 Cover STL files.zip

(192.49 KiB) Downloaded 30 times

Raise3D Pro2 Cover 3MF files.zip

(161.38 KiB) Downloaded 16 times

Raise3D Pro2 Cover IDEA file.zip

(1.29 MiB) Downloaded 25 times

[Ronvp]

The result was that the printer continues to print, but without any filament. The strange thing is that is happens at exact same print-height. But we found that the tube were bendt. The thing is, in this specific case, is that my detail that I were printing is printed diagonaly across the pringbed and almost maximum what can be fitted into the build area and thats why the tubes getting pushed some extra on the side of the top cover.

That is why I made the cover extender..also note that with the cover on, the extruder motors get very warm, also causing an issue with the fillament grinding. They are working on a fix.. I pln to drill some holes in the top of the cover, so the hot air can vent out.

One more thing. Make sure you push the tube all the way through the feeding nipple (above the filament spool), let it stick slightly out below the rim. If not, the filament will scrape against the nipple. BTW, this also makes loading of the filament a lot easier..

[Korni]

Fine, THX but what you mean ...

had to make an adjustment to the connectors

?

[Korni]

Is this correct ????

Print:
4x Raise3D Pro2 Cover spacer corners.STL
2x Raise3D Pro2 Cover spacer connector 2.STL
2x Raise3D Pro2 Cover spacer connector 1.STL
THX

[simon_srp]

The result was that the printer continues to print, but without any filament. The strange thing is that is happens at exact same print-height. But we found that the tube were bendt. The thing is, in this specific case, is that my detail that I were printing is printed diagonaly across the pringbed and almost maximum what can be fitted into the build area and thats why the tubes getting pushed some extra on the side of the top cover.

That is why I made the cover extender..also note that with the cover on, the extruder motors get very warm, also causing an issue with the fillament grinding. They are working on a fix.. I pln to drill some holes in the top of the cover, so the hot air can vent out.

One more thing. Make sure you push the tube all the way through the feeding nipple (above the filament spool), let it stick slightly out below the rim. If not, the filament will scrape against the nipple. BTW, this also makes loading of the filament a lot easier..

Thanks for the clarification. We thought that the cover were a part of the problem.
But we're going to print you top cover extrender to give the tubes more space to move around. I also read about the issue with extruder motors but did not think they were a part of this but probably they are. Also, I thought it would be good to always keep the the top cover on to keep the warmth inside But maby not in all cases.

thank you!

[EL Cuajinais]

Thanks for posting this, this is good timing for me as I am in the process of adapting the Zimpure air filter to my N2. Can you also please share .stp files? I don’t know if the dimensions are the same on the N2 as the Pro2 and I will have to modify the back riser anyway to have a hole for the suction hose to pass through.

Thanks again.

[michaelhauser]

My design is a little different in that it straddles the case edge on both sides, so it doesn't depend on tension of the whole spacer frame to hold it up. That has the nice side effect that it could be used to both add height and ventilation by only printing the corner pieces.
Also, the lip for the cover is on the inside rather than the outside. I did it that way because I was planning to add hinges to the rear piece and I didn't want the lip interfering when the cover was hinged back. Anyway, as mentioned above, I only got as far as a test corner piece. The test piece is short but the actual design could be as tall as desired. The test fits my N2 perfectly.

n2 cover spacer corner.stl

(370.79 KiB) Downloaded 12 times

[jetdillo]

Thanks for posting this, this is good timing for me as I am in the process of adapting the Zimpure air filter to my N2. Can you also please share .stp files? I don’t know if the dimensions are the same on the N2 as the Pro2 and I will have to modify the back riser anyway to have a hole for the suction hose to pass through.

Thanks again.

Is this shipping yet ?
What sort of adaptations are you having to do ?
Thanks!