Official Raise3D Community

This has been discussed in other threads. You can also do this using Cura or Slic3r.

Also the flats are only on the bottom flange below the platform.

Ah.

If you try to start a fan at 10% speed, for example, most fans won't start - they simply stall and overheat. If you manually start the fan rotating, it will continue running at 10%, but it won't self-start. The idea is to give the fan an initial "kick" with a brief pulse to maybe 30%, to g...

If the flats are a press-fit on the ball-nuts, then why bolt them in place at all? Why not just open up the holes for the top of the holding bolts, and press the piece on to the ball-huts from the top?

Don't forget the missing-for-a-year camera option for the N-series.

The exposed edges of the plastic enclosure are also extremely sharp. I used a plastic de-edger to smooth them to avoid cuts.

Advanced Settings / Layer Panel / Print Parts in Sequential Order This setting should print the parts one-at-a-time, but appears to be non-functional, i.e. broken. When printing sequentially, you need to arrange the parts with enough space between them that the head clears any previously-printed par...

PC does not react well to printing fast, as it seems rubbery and acts like it has high surface tension while hot. IMHO, 40mm/sec is about the maximum speed for good prints - 30mm/sec is probably going to be more reliable.

When printing multiple parts, printing them sequentially rather than all at once (interleaved) is much more reliable, and a bit faster as well. If one part is screwed up, those printed previously will still be usable.

Maybe sprinkle a little talcum on the silicone to reduce the adhesion?

I use the .020" (half-mm) thickness of PEI (Ultem brand) with the frosted surface up, from cshyde: http://catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/3d-printing-materials/ultem-pei? They offer it with the back side adhesive already applied (with no wrinkles or bubbles) which makes applying to the glass easie...

The PEI from CSHyde comes with adhesive pre-applied to the PEI, making it Much easier to install on the glass, and has an option for smooth or stippled surface (I prefer the latter).
http://catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/3d- ... /ultem-pei?

detroitus' spool holder is the only one I've found that allows you to use the common black plastic 1kg spools with the N2 door closed, without any rubbing. An excellent design.

Lots of us are wondering if Raise3D will ever actually meet their 2016 commitment and offer a camera for the N2.

a) the Buildtak peels off fairly easily, and can be replaced by,
b) https://catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/3d ... /ultem-pei

Get a larger sheet and trim the edges to fit with a knife.

I have a run-out sensor, new in box for sale. Asking $50, plus $9 for Priority Mail to US. Send PM.

You would be far better off replacing the buildtak with PEI, as has been documented in many threads here.

Just a silly thought, but perhaps one of you could contact Martin Bondeus (the manufacturer) and ask him?

You can do this using Slic3r or Cura.

Or maybe just pry them up until they don't press down on the glass at all, so they can act as just stops.

I take it that the glass doesn't slide on the silicone?