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The battery is tiny, it is not designed to power the entire printer. Its only function is to allow the control board to save it's place in the print then safely shutdown.
Or are you saying that the LCD powers off the moment AC power is lost?

I'm in agreement with EL Cuajinais, unless you have a specific need for the massive Z of the n2+. Also the N2 is already huge and most prints will already fit on it. Another factor is the print time, with the N2+ your looking at multiple days of print time and not just hours, with such huge prints i...

If you need to get by until the new buildtak arrives you can use aqua net no sent extra hold hair spray, with the backup glass out of the printer give the glass a good thick coat and let it dry, after every couple of prints or so you can just give it a quick spray to refresh the hairspray layer wher...

I like the magnet latch/pivot point idea, simple and out of the way.

Another possibility is your retracting too far on the tool change, I had this issue with Alloy 910 Nylon, at the end of a print I would retract 5mm (iirc) this worked fine for PLA but with the nylon it would fail to extrude at the start of the next job and would need a manual push with the cleaning ...

While I don't think it's really necessary to go water cooling for the stepper drives unless maybe you are printing something that needs a real high chamber temp it is interesting to try and designing something for and fun to watch your progress:) With a printed copper block and a thin walled silicon...

Are you able to move the X/Y motors ever, or is it only not working in the utility's menu? So you can only get the Z motor to move?

This is for the N2, I have Jetguys modded F/W to turn on the duel fans at a set nozzle temp, that is why both fans are connected to the left connector on the carriage board.
Not sure if it's helpful but here you go.

Its silly but just to make sure, did you double check that you are using the correct left hand extruder cable connected to the motor as you will have a unused cable flapping about with the bondtech duel extruder upgrade.

Not sure how much control you have over the model but if I was designing something like that I would try and find a way to print the outer structure separated from all the floors perhaps even print each of the four side structure flat on the bed. (cut in half if its too long) Adding small notches on...

Wow, your brave using a 3d printed part to contain water near electronics:) Because you have a plastic thermal interface anyway maybe having a silicone tube would work just as well or better, have a silicone tube contacting the driver ic, that way you only using printed parts to guide the tube, no n...

Adjusting the bed distance from the LCD menu will not change any home defaults, it only moves the bed, any prints started will ignore where the bed started as it will re-home (re-zero) the height. Not considered best practice but you can adjust this in IdeaMaker under the Advanced Other tab, look fo...

Are you sure this is a nozzle strike? If the nozzle struck a edge and lost position you would see the hairy mess both inside and outside of the box's, I only see it on the inside, almost like you printed in the air without any support. Did you inspect the Gcode before printing? This could be a geome...

95% of the time my printer runs nice and silent however at some specific speeds I can get what I also might call a harmonic vibration, most occurrences I hear this as the printer is homing, though this is never that loud. If you get this at lower print speeds perhaps try and speed things up a bit to...

Just to make sure, you can go back to R3D filament and it will start working fine again yes? If so I think this is just another case of the short comings of an extruder drive that has a fixed distance and not spring loaded. Simply put some none R3D brands can be softer or a slightly smaller diameter...

Your starting too close to the bed, did you adjust the bed height after adding tape? Check out this page if you not sure how to change this. http://www.raise3d.com/pages/wiki See the Leveling/Nozzle Distance section. Not a huge fan of the BuildTak myself but why blue tape? Once you get the distance ...

You could also make a little disk the same thickness as your layer height and place them under the support, this will provide more surface area for the support.

Reduction of extuder mass will also help greatly to reduce ringing, if you have a duel extruder system you could temporarily remove the unused motor. Screws are under the acrylic cover, make sure the bot is off before unplugging the motor. Also the Bondtech upgrade will shave off a large amount of w...

Vary cool, well done.

swampy wrote:suused it out in the txt file you can change the nozzle size think its like playing with the gcode on models not comp clever but sorted now and using .6mm in my ctc

ReplicatorG can be used to convert Gcode to X3G, just open the Gcode file with RepG and export for SD card.