Official Raise3D Community

Jetguy - IF I make these lined guide tubes, should I switch them out when I go back to regular filaments?

So cool. So are they adding an option for more colors, 6, 8??

fwiw, I found that the brass 400um nozzles worked but the steel coated ones would not work with ninja.

Jetguy- this would be a great place to use that super-slick ptfe tubing!

Also, The USB cable hangs straight down from the boards. Raise suggested: Check and hot glue it in place both on the lcd controller board and on the main board. I know, doesn't sound very elegant but it works.

please add back to ideamaker a setting for general flow rate. My new nozzles seem to under-extrude by a little and it would be helpful to add this adjustment back to the menu.

Thanks, that'll do it!

with vase mode, there is no retraction

vase mode is nice and very smooth

I have seen that too and just ignored it. I think you may want to message Vicky about this

May I suggest trying to print with a slower raft pint speed

Well I can help on the holes, I had the same problem with my retraction tests. Basicly, with the big nozzle, retraction doesn't quite work right. You get around it by putting in a value in "add after retraction" IIRC it was about 1.2mm for me using petg. I also found that slowing down and ...

hah ha haaa that is a great print!

hmm post some pics and I'll take a look, Vicky is also a great help.

So you are saying that once you have removed the hot end you need to turn on the printer and have it start to heat the hot end until you smell the heat in order to loosen the set screws? The plastic cover that goes over the extruder board does cause the thermocouple wires to kink. Let me clarify: I...

OK I think I have looked all over I can't see where to adjust the overall flow/ feed for anything but first layer, fill.

Am I missing something, I need to increase my overall flow by 2-5%.

getting out the thermocouple is a TOTAL PITA! you need an M1.5, brand new or atleast hardened steel, Allen wrench. You will also need to heat up the block to get the thermocouple out if there is the slightest contamination in the thermocouple hole (there always is). It is really tough to twist that ...

one thing to check is for and remove double verts (if using blender or another mesh type program). Faces too close are also a source of errors as the slicer thinks they overlap

took me a bit to figure out why but I run calibration cubes etc frequently and had tuned to the old nozzles. A 400um nozzle worn out to just 410um gives 5% more feed. So I reinforced my habits: even with regular non-abraisive filament, new nozzles should be installed every 6 months!

the wrapping is insulation and is essential when printing PLA IMHO as it reduces the risk of edge curl as it decreases the heat radiating down from the block onto the already extruded plastic.

I had to replace my thermocouples and was extremely frustrated -> they are held in by short little m1.5 set screws. Into Aluminum! They were, predictably, bound in and could only be removed with a brand new Allen wrench. PLEASE redesign the hot end block to use bigger screws. Personally, I favor M3 ...

FWIW the thermocouple wires are a form of steel and very springy. Mine was broken at the connector but the springiness kept adequate connection most of the time and I got the rare over temperature errors that gradually became more frequent.